![]() Just some simple looking and thinking you will have to do to make sure that is a safe and good shooter. It should, if not the wood may have cracked because of those two metal pieces having the stock wood in the way and not making contact. Try and see if the recoil bolt itself (the metal bolt running through the stock) has a wear pattern on it from the recoil lug on the action. ![]() Some one mentioned that crack will not move any but I have had one that did and it resulted in a catastrophic cracking of the stock into almost two pieces so I hope they are right! The crack in that one ran parallel to the center line of the stock vertically so I kind of hope that one not only looks different but is different in what results from it. That crack may have done that for you already so consider that possibility too. If that is the case I would say you need to open the position that the action sits in the stock a bit, very little not much. My thoughts on the crack running forward is that action may not sit just right in the stock and that with the act of shooting has caused the crack to radiate forward. I use a thin super glue (Loctite brand non-gel) but if you have to go at it from the outside you may only be able to use Elmer's glue to make sure it can be wiped off the finish with a wet cloth. The biggest problem with it going forward (to my eyes it looks forward) is that it may not be possible to leach or get glue into that crack from the inside of the stock. Looking at the direction it goes I want to ask if the action fits tightly into the stock? I ask because they usually crack toward the rear when they radiate from the recoil lug. I kind of pale when I see a crack radiating in anyway from the recoil lug which that one seems to do. If you want to use brass or bronze wool or brush have it Oh and it usually will take awhile and a couple of times with that stuff. Buff it out like the karate kid, and bam!…you’re in business.4 oooo steel wool will not hurt anything with oil and I have used it for years. This may take a few dips of the brush, which is why speed is important.Īfter the finish has hardened, put a little elbow grease into the mixture by waxing the furniture. Apply enough solvent to cut down to the wood, but not in to the wood. Don’t worry if the cracks don’t disappear right away they’ll do so as the finish dries. Apply a healthy amount of solvent with your brush to the crack, in long, quick strokes that run with the wood grains. Reamalgamation is a process that, once begun, has to be finished quickly, so keep cool, but don’t slow down. Get yourself a brand new, never-been-used-before brush (natural bristles won’t deteriorate in the solvents), and go to work. Sorry.īefore breaking out any solvents, clean the finished furniture thoroughly, with a rag and some mineral spirits, so that no dirt or grime gets mixed in with your soon to be fresh (again) finish. Remember how I said you can “usually” take care of finish cracks? Well, varnish can’t be reworked. The type of solvent that you use will depend on the type of finish you’re working with (ethanol for shellac, lacquer thinner for lacquer). Using a solvent, you’re going to break down the finish into a liquid state, and let it dry and harden again… you’re essentially reapplying the same finish material. There is a process called reamalgamation (which is a mouthful, I know), by which you can (usually) take care of finish cracks and discolorations as they appear, saving not only your finish but the wood it protects as well! What might change a lot of people’s minds about finish cracks being “cool” is if they knew how easy it was to get rid of them. Often, though, I think people just tell themselves this so that they feel a little better about watching their furniture show visible signs of growing closer to an expiration date. Sometimes, with the heat lightning-esque spider webs of lines they create, it can add a pleasing “aged” effect to furniture, making things look a little more vintage.
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